I've seen another Macbook Air and this one was worse, gamma seemed to be totally different, so it's either been set manually on the first one or there are several screen types as it was in previous years.
I ended up buying last year's Surface Pro and it's almost exactly the case from @hpst post - the screen is great, it has good colors, seems to be stable, no usual issues, but … it still strains 🙂 I'll give it a try within next weeks and see how it goes - with some devices I could overcome strain after longer period of usage, since this screen looks fine, there's a slight Chance I'll get used to it.