Thank you very much for the reply! Yes, I also do a lot of tweakings and verify them with a manual shutter camera.
Also noticed that the Gaming and Graphics on Sony seem to be the best profiles. I picked them by the less lag they have, as I figured it's also the least processing. I use to take the brigtness to the lowest level and the contrast to about half, and deactivate all the proccessings possible (Contrast Enhancer, Smooth Motion, etc). As I work in video editing and graphics, I also try to use a good gamma, from the video card control panel (usually up by 20-30%), as it's more natural than the default contrasty one.
I went hours in the sowrooms (eMag, Altex, Carrefour in my coutry, Romania) and ask for remote control and tried all the available TV's. All of them had PWM at lower brightness levels except for the Sony's, that's why I bought 3 of them.
Also went to people's home's and tested as I could from the SH market; all PWM's. In fact, are there any TV's PWM free except for Sony's?
As for changing HDMI's port, I also tried the HDMI's settings, from enhanced to standard, only to no good result.
I did not mention that I want to use the TV only as a monitor for the desktop PC, which has an nvidia 1070 with Windows 8.1 (tested good configuration on the Sony KD-55XF7077 I broke). I don't switch it from TV to HDMI (PC) as I use a TV tunner for that.
By the way, what is your flicker test equipment? Mine is a phone with manual shutter controls or mirrorless Panasonic G80. I also have a mirrorless Fuji X-T30, but it's newer and somehow it likes to syncronize with the flicker.
Thanks, greetings from Romania!