markdotpeters5
Yeah, I suspect the Studio Display won’t work. But I was surprised it seemed more comfortable than my 2011 Thunderbolt Display, which I believe is an LG 8-bit display, with the same settings: Stillcolor + 8-bit output with BetterDisplay. There are a lot of variables with the Thunderbolt Display: I bought it used off eBay and it shows signs the cable was repaired so who knows what else was, it has an extra layer of glass a few centimeters away from the panel that clearly creates a double image, and it just recently smelled like it was burning (it is 15 years old) so maybe the power supply or capacitors are going bad.
I could not detect PWM on up to 1/50,000 shutter speed, though I did detect what looks like the LCD scanout at 1/7,000 and 1/11,000 shutter speed. No strobing on 240 fps slow motion.
For anyone curious here’s a cropped image of the neck of my acoustic guitar where the double image is very clear:
I don’t know if this is relevant or not. My MBP and iPhone don’t have this outline but the MBP isn’t very comfortable. I also ordered a magnetic Kensington privacy shield for the MBP to see if that might do anything at all. But yeah, I think the Eizo is likely to be the best bet, unfortunately. Or I can take the Thunderbolt Display to my local Apple repair shop and see if they can find out why it smells like it’s burning.
If none of this works, it looks like I’ll have to go the PC route, so I’ll be bothering several of you! If I do get the Eizo, I will test with a Windows 11 machine to confirm or deny Microsoft’s claim that dithering is disabled on true 10-bit displays. But I’m gonna need a bit more time to come up with the $2,000 for it. Last time I went to try it the B&H guys couldn’t figure out how to get it to connect to the MacBook 😂 From what I read, the LG display used by the Studio Display has a very stable voltage, so perhaps that may be of benefit if nothing else.