hayder1983 Are you sensitive to PWM? I just bought the 2494HM and unfortunately even at the highest brightness setting, the one I have still uses a small amount of PWM.
Unless anyone knows any tricks in the settings???
hayder1983 Are you sensitive to PWM? I just bought the 2494HM and unfortunately even at the highest brightness setting, the one I have still uses a small amount of PWM.
Unless anyone knows any tricks in the settings???
hayder1983 What do you mean with "professional lighting"?
GregAtkinson I am unsure. I think low frequency PWM is ok for me. High frequency PWM not. But as soon as i started using the 2494hm and i use it at brighntess 10/100 my eyes started to normalize. Eyedrops only once per day. No pain, only a bit of a dry eye. I can use my laptop screen too. No nausea.
AGI Trilux lamps from my work. Very high quality but used office lamps. Didnt try it yet.
TrantaLocked I think you are making wrong assumptions about solving eye strain for monitor. Refresh rate might have for some users positive affect, but that is nothing to do with LED strain or PWM. I would advice to stay way from cheap gaming high refresh monitors. These usually have very poor color accuracy and might have LED flicker / temporal dithering. Simple Rules are:
27 Inch only QHD (4k option should be prohibited, 1080p too since its too low).
32 inch sweet spot for 4k
24 inch probably could do with 1080p, but it will not be sharp.
Refresh rates:
Any of these monitors with high refresh rate without having premium price will either (or both) - very poor color quality and temporal dithering, or flickering screen. Want gaming refresh rate - pay real price for it!
Now, since this is LED strain forum, if you want protect your eyes, industry already has solution and that is certification TUV Eye Strain / Flicker-free. Any product that has these labels must go through testing to acquire the certification.
And if you do not care about the details, well then pay super premium, those should be good in most cases. Also, why would someone bother with Asus, Dell, Alienware and other mickey mouse brands. There are only two panel manufacturers - LG and Samsung. Thats it, why bother with other branded products that are trying to sell you on ports, menus, stands, design and other non-sense.
Hope that helps,
D
Donux You are so grossly misinformed:
You should probably tone down your attitude, especially with such a poor knowledge of the topic.
EyeDiscomfortCertificate No there is no "only two panel manufacturers" and Samsung does not produce any panels since 2018(?), however the do design their panels and outsource their manufacture to CSOT and AUO. Now there 4 major IPS panel manufacturers (BOE - by far the market leader these days, LG, Innolux, AUO) and 3 major IPS panel manufacturers (Innolux, AUO, CSOT). Neither LG nor Samsung put their panels in their monitors- LG uses exclusively BOE and Samsung does not make panels at all.
In addition. I wouldn't be surprised if certain brands insisted on higher quality quality of panels versus others because i.e AliExpress has sellers claiming to sell same panels known to be used in certain high end monitors but sometimes at a discount and the cynic in me wouldn't be surprised if they ended up being "B grade" or thereabouts from same factories.
On a related note NEC and Panasonic largely divested themselves of the high end monitor market a few years ago, so that's another potential curveball towards quality.
I have a BenQ GW2780 and can use it with minimal issues. I was set on upgrading to an Eizo 2760, but I am reading negative things about newer Eizo monitors which worries me. My current monitor and the Eizo Flexscan models both bost some sort of "flicker free" brightness control, but only Eizo explicitly states they use a hybrid approach which I translate as them using high frequency PWM on mid to lower brightness levels. I haven't seen any information from BenQ stating how they implement their "flicker free" method.
I have grown to despise HDR. Many panels offered today want a piece of the P3 color space or something equivalent. That's impossible on an 8 bit monitor without FRC.
Since I don't bother with HDR, I thought Eizo Flexscan montiors would fit my requirements for a "high end" 8 bit monitor that doesn't attempt to exceed the sRGB color space. I suppose finding that quality in a monitor that uses zero PWM doesn't seem obtainable right now.
Small update: the new AMD 7900X + 1660 super PC keeps giving me problems with my Alienware aw2518hf monitor, so I tried to buy a new 27" 2K 144hz 8 bit VA monitor without FRC but the situation doesn't change, massive dizziness.
Today I tried connecting the PC to my LG B8 OLED TV and with that the situation improved drastically. I need to do more tests because I still have some dizziness/headache from yesterday, but it seems perfect with the OLED TV.
I was already planning to buy LG's new 27" OLED 240HZ (27GR95QE) however it's an 8bit + FRC.. so I'm considering whether it's better to buy the Alienware AW3423DW which is a 10bit?!
tfouto @Lauda89
a) TV's can have their own issues with image quality when attempting to use them as a computer monitor (i.e subpixel layout, also chroma subsampling that's used to "fit" more data into a connection of fixed bandwidth)
b) If the only thing different is the components of the computer were changed, while otherwise running the same software I highly doubt changing monitors will do anything to "solve" the issue.
TrantaLocked i think, for the most of us the problem is in the LED backlit. Monitors/TV's which uses LED backlit are more agressive on eyes/brain!
Well since no one here was actually helpful, I ended up rolling the dice with an omen 25i. Decent enough for gaming, and the polarization is horizontal and works decent enough for my eyes. No splitting head ache and can look at it for a decent amount of time. Could there be better monitors out there… perhaps but this was enough for my use case.
Lauda89 Another update: I tried the samsung G8 OLED with the 7900X and with the 1660super but the situation is still the same: dizziness.
Desperate, I decided to change the 7900X and motherboard with a 13700K. Because i can use the Accenture PC with W11 21H2 + i5 1145G7 with the uperfect 17" portable monitor and my old CCFL.
So i changed the MB, the CPU, installed W11 21H2 but nothing change, still sick with every monitor i got.
The iGPU is different to be precise because the 13700K has a UHD 770 while the 1145G7 has the Xe. Maybe this is the reason but I am beginning to think that the motherboard plays a very important role.
The old perfect PC (1700X+RX 480) I "destroyed" it two weeks ago by updating the motherboard bios for the purpose of changing the CPU. Putting the old bios back didn't fix the problem.
Lauda89 NVRAM values. Disconnect the power and pull the CMOS battery connector out and leave it off for an hour to give it a good long time to discharge. When you reconnect it, all the contents will have been blanked and it will load the values in again from the chip that is present. You will know it has happened because you will need to set the time and date again. If there is no connector, then just remove the battery itself, usually a CR2032 coin cell or similar.
The reason this is worth trying is because downgrading doesn't necessarily overwrite a value if it has no reason to if a value is present.
Sunspark Don't know about the motherboard he has, but I'm aware of certain motherboards that store user configuration and other variables in nonvolatile storage and use the lack of power as a cue to potentially clear it, rather than the "old" practice of storing the config in RAM or similarly power backed storage that would be blanked upon removing all power. What is the difference? I've seen evidence the former isn't entirely perfect due to potential firmware bugs.
Practically, not much difference, but flashing a new bios by itself does not reset/clear settings. Manually pressing reset-to-defaults may work, but that is dependent on an understanding of how the function works. What is it doing? Is it just writing in values it knows about and is visible in the user interface, or does it blank the whole thing? The fact that it doesn't reset the clock indicates to me that it doesn't blank everything and maybe it's accessing values that a different bios version set in the memory. So, if he's complaining about his computer being "different" despite a downgrade, there is value in clearing the bios nvram by removing the battery. I've done it plenty of times on my NUC, there is no risk on a modern system, this isn't a glitchy network router from 15 years ago.