jasonpicard nope, the OLED is perfect for me with everything except the Switch.
Nintendo Switch
Jivedonkey Which model is the TV?
15 days later
Hey guys, I'm curious if the majority of people here have problems with the Nintendo Switch, or if it's just a few select people, and if there are any mitigation strategies for it.
Super Smash Bros, Ultimate has released today, and that's a definite console-mover and core title that has been highly anticipated. Before I jump right in I should probably at least try a Switch at a Best Buy or something, because I haven't actually tried one yet!
I used to play Super Smash Bros. Melee for GameCube (semi-)professionally once upon a time, and unfortunately the issue that brings me here likely kiboshed chances to turn fully pro. eSports became huge after I essentially "retired" from play as well, with some people I know that I used to compete with going on to make well... millions. I try not to think too much of what could have been because it's just too depressing, haha.
Actually someone even wrote a SmashWiki article about me once, and somehow even knew I had eye comfort issues! I once signed up to edit that portion out - you know - personal health struggles and the sort, but upon another look that detail came back again, lol!
https://www.ssbwiki.com/Smasher:MagnuM
This issue has made me feel like an old man for a long time now (first presented itself December 2011). I'm thinking of buying a Nintendo Switch and the new Smash so that I can actually feel young again! I guess I first want to check if the Switch is "eye-safe", and if that applies to the mobile and docked (console) configurations, or just the console.
- Edited
I've been on most Nintendo consoles and hand-held's since the original NES, and can say whole-heartedly the Switch is the first Nintendo console to ever give me issues.
I first thought is it because it is hand-held? But I have used hand-held's for YEARS (All versions of Game Boy, Game Gear, Atari Lynx, PSP, DS Lite - etc...) for hours without any symptoms.
I got the Switch last year and was super excited - within 10-15 minutes of play, either docked or on my good Plasma TV, it wasn't eye strain but I felt really tired/dizzy/spaced out. Similar symptoms to what I experience on an iMac - which to me says there is some sort of dithering going on - IMO.
At the moment it seems all console gaming for me is a dead-end - if Nvidia dithering/PC eye issues are resolved i'll probably join the PC master race 
- There may be a Nintendo Switch emulator in a few years. I'm a big retro gaming fan and emulators are definately worth checking out - Check out Dolphin for gamecube/wii as an example.*
*To play backups of your own games 
.
Weird, I can use Nintendo switch without any problem. I also bought Xbox one x and that is no problem. But using my Macbook 2018 pro gives severe strain. Also my brothers Ryzen laptop (Acer Ryzen 2500u) gives strain after 15 minutes. My Samsung s6 is also strain free. And so is my iPhone 4s.All new laptops i tried gives me strain. Only my old amd laptop with radeonhd 4200 is strain free. I can Even use the latest Windows 10 on that without strain.
diop OT but a good guide on how to dump various disc based games from various consoles.
Reproduced here:
Ok, I'm gonna go a bit into detail here...
Unfortunately you'll need a bunch of drives to cover all those consoles properly, that is if you really only want to use your PC and not the modded consoles to extract the discs (which in many cases saves you quite a lot of time/headache).
PS2 is the easiest of the bunch. As you already found out, these are plain DVDs; any DVD drive will read these discs just fine.
As for Gamecube and Wii discs, you're correct, you need the LG GDR-8161B, GDR-8162B, GDR-8163B or GDR-8164B and a program named FriiDump. Extracting the GC/Wii discs is pretty slow with these drives (you can expect about an hour per GC disc, several hours especially for dual layer Wii discs), so a modded Wii with CleanRip is a more convenient solution.
Xbox and Xbox 360 are quite similar to GC/Wii in that you need a "special" drive, namely a Kreon compatible drive. Kreon is an alternative firmware that allows these select few drives to see the game data on the disc. You can dump the discs with Xbox Backup Creator pretty easily then. If you insert an Xbox or Xbox 360 game disc into a non-Kreon DVD drive, you'll only get a DVD-V partition containing a video telling you that this disc is meant for playback in an Xbox or Xbox 360 console. An example for such a Kreon compatible drive is the Samsung SH-D162C; I can't really remember any other drives, so you'd have to google that.
PS3 and PS4 can be read with most if not all standard Bluray drives.
Xbox One discs seem to be readable by certain drives as well, but I have not looked into that topic at all, so I can't give you any reliable information here.
Wii U discs are impossible to dump on a PC so far.
With CD-based consoles, it really depends whether the disc contains audio tracks. If it doesn't, you can use any CD or DVD drive to dump the disc (for example, 3DO discs don't contain audio tracks, PSX discs sometimes do). If the disc DOES contain audio tracks (as is the case with Saturn discs, Sega CD discs, PCE-CD discs, ...), you'll have to decide... if you don't care about slight (that is, completely unnoticable) inaccuracies, you can use pretty much any CD or DVD drive for dumping them. However, if you're like me and you'd prefer to have super accurate dumps which you can verify against databases such as redump etc, you're gonna need a drive that supports overreading into leadin/-out. I highly recommend a Plextor drive such as the PX760A -- these are excellent drives with great error correction.
As for GD-ROMs (the discs used in the Sega Dreamcast), I highly recommend not dumping them via PC. These discs consist of several "areas"; the one that contains the game data is written in higher density, so it's not accessible on a standard drive. Technically, it's possible to use certain drives -- such as the aforementioned Samsung SH-D162C -- and trick them into reading the discs. The process to do so is really really complicated and involves taking your drive apart. If you're interested in the gruesome details, see http://forum.redump.org/topic/2620/dreamcastnaomi-gdrom-dumping-instructions/
TL;DR: If you really want to do everything via PC, I suggest:
-> LG GDR-8164B (or (8161-8163, whichever you can get) for GC/Wii
-> Samsung SH-D162C for Xbox/Xbox 360 and DC (if you're brave enough...)
-> Plextor PX-760A for CD-based media, i.e. Saturn, PSX, Sega CD etc.
-> any Bluray drive for PS3/PS4
PS2 would be possible on ANY of these drives. CD-based media too, so if you don't need super accurate dumps, you don't need the Plextor.
Plsnostrain your problem might be blue light and not dithering. I also don't think I am sensitive to dithering. But blue light on the other hand. Just crazy...
No, i dont think its blue light. That only interferes with my sleep pattern, it has nothing to do with strain. I think its something with the rendering technique ,im not sure its temporal dithering(it could be). I could use the Playstation 4 fine before they updated it last year, so its definetively something they do driver wise. And the iphone 8 plus is also unusable.
Plsnostrain If you reduce the contrast to the minimum possible, when using your PS4 does it have any influence?
No, it didnt do anything whatever settings i tried after the update. I have now sold it.
5 days later
Well I took the plunge and bought myself a Nintendo Switch, and I'm very happy to report that I don't seem to have any issues with it so far! I did the initial setup for 2 hours on the handheld device without any "LED headache" or terrible pain behind my eyes like I've described with almost every other type of LED monitor. Remember, I'm the guy that will have a really bad headache and aching eyeballs within seconds/minutes of looking at LED-backlit computer monitors in the office.
While this is very exciting for my new purchase (especially as a die-hard Nintendo fan), this almost opens up more questions than it answers. I have not been able to tolerate any modern displays for quite some time now (chiefly LED). Why am I able to tolerate this one? Is the handheld display not an LED perhaps?
I do have one issue with my Switch though, but thankfully it's purely technical and not health related! When I went to dock the Switch to my TV for the first time, the screen constantly trembles, is slightly zoomed-in and off center, and there are flickering lines that appear on the screen. This is on my old 40" Samsung Series 6 LCD TV that I bought 10 years ago. I get slightly better results when I try different HDMI ports (HDMI4 on the side works the best for some reason).
These things do go away if I go in the Switch settings and downgrade the output from "Automatic" or "1080p" down to 720p, but as you can imagine, it's not the most ideal workaround because it doesn't look at good
Sounds like a problem with the HDMI cable/dock. Can't rule out the switch itself, though.
I think there are literally different screen revisions, with no way to tell which you're getting. My son got one, and it is better than the one I had owned... I haven't spent a lot of time with it but it seems tolerable...
Gurm I tried plugging the dock into a different power outlet, tried a known good HDMI cable, and then tried different HDMI ports on the TV. HDMI4 on the side of the TV worked fine, while HDMI1, HDMI2, and HDMI3 all seemed to have the problems I was describing. I then played Smash Ultimate until like 1:30 AM last night, and it's a very fun and awesome game!
If the setup works on one port, I'm assuming that might rule out all of the Nintendo Switch stuff if it can work in a particular setup? Maybe I have some weird menu option settings enabled on HDMI[1-3].
MagnuM Well, after taking my Switch to a friends house (also an old LCD Samsung Series 6 but Plasma instead of LCD) and having the exact same issues occur, I was starting to doubt my Switch more and more. I hate doing this, as the store likely has to swallow the loss, but I asked the manager at Shopper Drug Mart if I could do an exchange, even though they mentioned that wasn't their typical policy and that they usually ask customers to go through the manufacturer (i.e. Nintendo). Doing so would mean not having my system during the holidays and my week off, but I guess my niceness paid off, as she made an exception for me and allowed me to have a system exchange performed.
I hooked up Switch #2 in the exact same way as Switch #1, and there are no more flickering lines anymore. Looks like I may have just had some bad luck and was handed a slightly defective system.
There's another more unfortunate possibility for Switch #1 that I'm hoping is a non-factor! I was setting it up in my basement that has a cushy high pile carpet that generates a heck of a lot of static electricity. Each time you shuffle around on it, either on your knees or your socks, you become ... ElectroMan (or Woman!). Every time I touched the Switch handheld while setting up the original system I would give it a shock that would always startle me like it does when you touch a lightswitch. I'm hoping these repeated shocks (it must have gotten at least 10) didn't do anything to the system. This was always against the handheld instead of the dock, but the areas I was shocking it at was always along the bottom edge near the charging port. Could the flickering lines of my first Switch have been caused by static damage perhaps?